I haven’t had a yard since I was a kid, but I’m moving into a house with a decent yard. I really don’t know what I need to do for upkeep beyond just mowing the grass.
Is there a checklist or something similar for lawn care like there is for home maintenance?
Thanks for any advice you can share!
Edited to add that I’m in Chicago.
Try binge watching this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JjnA1TI8Pxg
It really varies based on how much water you are willing to use and the effort you’re ready to put in. When I was a first-time homeowner, I spent a lot of time and had an amazing lawn. After 20 years, I’m now trying to have a decent-looking lawn that uses less water and requires much less work.
If you’re okay with watering a lot, May is key for starting a really nice lawn. You should either sow a lot of grass seed and soil into bare spots, apply a top dressing across the entire lawn, and keep it well-watered, or use seed germination preventers for crabgrass. Once crabgrass sets in, trying to remove it manually is usually ineffective. Keep in mind that doing both could prevent your grass seed from germinating too.
If you have grubs (and you probably will have critters like raccoons or skunks digging around), you want to apply nematodes by late May and keep them watered to ensure they can spread underground to get to the grubs.
If you seeded, avoid fertilizers with a high first number (this indicates nitrogen) and choose one with a balanced formula and a high second number (phosphorus). Using a high nitrogen fertilizer will make your grass look good but won’t develop deep roots, making it vulnerable in August. Even without seeding, a high nitrogen fertilizer means more frequent mowing. It’s best to apply a slow-release fertilizer in May if you’ve not done top dressing.
Depending on your soil type, you might need to add top dressing every spring. Even great topsoil benefits from top dressing, especially when you’re planting seeds in bare areas. Getting it delivered in a bulk bag is the most affordable option.
You can do all this using organic materials, but the cheapest slow-release fertilizers aren’t organic. If you live near waterfront, you may want to limit fertilizer use to prevent impacting the water.
This advice comes from a friend who runs a family-owned garden center and landscaping business. There might be other methods out there, but I would call this the classic approach.
Mow regularly, dethatch every year or two, and water it if it gets too brown for your liking. Early morning watering is best since it reduces evaporation, and the grass dries quicker too.
Unless you want it to look perfect, that’s really it. The biggest mistake people make is mowing grass too short. I cut it to 3 inches in spring and fall, and to 4 inches in summer. Going shorter than that risks burning the grass.
@Jamie
Absolutely, longer blades usually mean healthier grass. Avoid letting it grow too long before cutting—try to cut less than 30% of the blade.
But really, it depends on your goals. I aim to support pollinators, so I only mow every two weeks, alternating between front and back yards, ensuring there’s always blooming clover (and some weeds, honestly).
My neighbor complains about how often he has to mow. I told him he should cut back on fertilizing twice a year. Some people want a flat-out perfect lawn, while others have different priorities.
@Jade
It’s amusing how people who fertilize and water constantly still complain about the costs and time spent mowing.
Ari said:
@Jade
It’s amusing how people who fertilize and water constantly still complain about the costs and time spent mowing.
Everyone needs something to complain about. At least this kind of griping is harmless and self-inflicted.
@Jamie
Longer grass tends to grow slower, so the cut remains more uniform for a longer time.
It really depends on how nice you want your yard to look. Be ready to mow and blow leaves in the winter because piles of leaves left on the grass can damage it. You’ll need to water in summer if there’s not enough rain and consider using weed and feed if you want a nice lawn with fewer weeds. A trimmer is useful for edges, and while an edger would be great, you can manage with a trimmer for now.
Mowing is simple enough, but more frequent mowing is generally better. Find out what kind of grass you have and keep it at the right length. More regular cutting encourages grass to grow wider instead of taller which helps fill in gaps. Plus, be sure to learn how to maintain your mower; your manual should have the details.
I’d suggest hiring someone for weed and feed. The all-in-one products at big stores often lead to applying weed killer or fertilizer at the wrong times. They might not know your soil’s condition too, which can alter its acidity. I hire a guy for my weed and feed—about $40 per treatment for my 1/4 acre, and he does seven treatments a year. My lawn is healthy and weed-free now. I wasted a lot of effort on store-bought products that didn’t work. A pro will examine your soil and know what it needs.
Beyond that, it comes down to your goals. Do you have plants, shrubs, or trees? What about mulch or pine straw areas? Flower beds?
Check out /r/lawncare?