Can you explain the steps without a break on crabgrass? Is it:
- dethatch
- seed
- starter fertilizer
- crabgrass preventer (Scott’s blue?)
- fall aerate and reseed
I’m in the northwest suburbs of Chicago
@Ciel
You can apply crabgrass pre-emerge if you get the right one that allows overseeding, but fall is better since a good pre-emerge acts before the ground warms up enough for turfgrass to germinate, and it wears off in time for grass to start growing while stopping grassy weeds.
You could even throw down seed now in winter and let the freeze-thaw cycle work it into the soil; seeding is always the cheap way to build density.
Yes, aeration helps loosen compacted soil and boosts root growth. For 400 sq ft, a manual core aerator is easily doable; it’s a bit of a workout. It makes a visible difference when you’re seeding bare areas.
I always aerate before seeding since it helps new seeds sprout. I only do it in fall, though, because crabgrass can be an issue in my area.
So far, no one has talked about the real reason for aeration. It starts with grass clippings from mowing.
You can bag them or leave them on the ground. If you leave them, over time they can create a barrier blocking air and water from getting into the soil. It’s similar to a thatched roof that keeps rain from entering a building. This thatch on a lawn can actually stop a lot of water from reaching the soil and keep needed air from coming through.
Core aeration makes holes in the thatch so air and water can reach the roots.
Bagging is an option too, but it removes nutrients and organic matter that would go back into the soil as the grass breaks down. Taking care of your lawn can really be a lot of work but pays off
@Leif
Isn’t dethatching what you’re describing? I thought core aeration is mainly for compacted soil.
Zara said:
@Leif
Isn’t dethatching what you’re describing? I thought core aeration is mainly for compacted soil.
That’s a fair question considering all the advice from the lawn care world. I have some experience in the business and know a bit about turf and soil science. Here’s what I think: Soil compaction in a lawn is uncommon. Sure, soil gets hard when it dries, but that’s usually short-lived in lawns with good top soil. In farming, compaction is a big deal since heavy machinery across wet fields can cause serious problems. Many lawns lack good top soil, but when compaction does occur, improving soil structure is key. Adding compost is the right fix. Core aeration is marketed as a solution, but I don’t find it effective. You end up with holes surrounded by compacted soil. Personally, I don’t think the idea of compaction holds much weight.
But core aeration does have its benefits. If used correctly, it can be very effective.